gallery - Barbarella

October 2025: Ha'apai

Back in Tonga we went to Ha’apai and from thereon to Nukualofa, the capital of the Christian Kingdom of Tonga. There we pick up our friend David. Recovering from ciguatera and getting better and better every week we enjoy exploring the beauty of Tonga. At the same time we prepare for our upcoming passage to New Zealand. Since this passage can sometimes be a bit wet, cold and bumpy, Nora decided to fly to New Zealand and wait there for David and me to arrive. Keep your fingers crossed for a dry, smooth and and “champagne sailing” passage 🙂

Leopard sharks

Another wonderful underwater creature we encountered for the first time: the super elegant leopard shark

Dodging whales in Ha'apai

In Tonga in general and particularly in Ha’apai there were whales everywhere. To make sure they hear us coming we had one engine on almost all the time. But when they sleep, even with an engine on, they do not always wake up. Twice we almost ran into a sleeping whale. When they were far away enough to not slalom around them we could take same videos. Enjoy….

Provisioning

What if it is Sunday, you are in one of the most remote anchorages in Vava’u and you do not feel like cooking? Well, order a pizza :-). So first time ever on Barbarella we got dinner delivered. Hot and on time. Even vegan if you want to

The rock of Polynesia

Niue is a raised coral atoll – basically one big chunk of uplifted limestone. There are no rivers that could transport mud into the ocean. One of the reasons why Niue has one of the clearest waters in the world. We could easily see the bottom from Barbarella when moored in 40 meters of water. The rain on the limestone creates some amazing chasms, caves and crevices. The downside of the rock of Polynesia is that there is no anchoring – just moorings. The only way to get onshore is using a dinghy crane. And if the wind is from the wrong direction it can be from very uncomfortable to outright dangerous. That is when you have to sail to the other side of Niue and tack up and down for 12-48 hours. Or, as we did, you sail to Beveridge reef. But as long as the conditions are good, Niue is just awesome

Ciguatera poisoning

In Niue we ate the wrong fish and got ciguatera poisoning. Ciguatera is a neuro toxin that completely messes up your nervous sensations. Cold things feel something like burning hot and hot things you cant even tell what you are feeling – other than a novel and extremely uncomfortable sensation. Similar to extreme cold. And these are only two of 175 described symptoms. Even now, 12 weeks after the poisoning, we sometimes have some symptoms, like feeling that your whole body is vibrating after a proper cup of coffee 🙁

Swimming with whales in Niue

Back in Niue we went on an organized whale tour with our friends from Explore Niue. And since many of you said that whales are always welcome… here we go

August 2025: Beveridge Reef

Working on our great ambition to become fair weather sailors, we waited in Niue for almost 5 weeks for the right weather window for our overnight sail to and the entering into Beveridge Reef. Beveridge Reef is a small atoll in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It is almost completely submerged. At high tide the waves splash over the reef into the atoll. At low tide some tiny sand patches emerge on the north east side of the atoll. When we arrived we were the only boat in Beveridge Reef. No other people, no internet. Nothing. Just waves, tides, sun, moon, stars, reef, fish, sharks, whales and ship wrecks. And one frigate bird. And all around us is the biggest ocean of the earth, covering 30% of the earth`s surface. We anchored for 6 days in solitude. Spooky, mythical, even spiritual

The beach

At low tide you can visit “the beach” of Beveridge Reef. Feels good to stretch your legs – and fly the drone for some spectacular views of Beveridge Reef

The underwater world

Beveridge Reef is a protected area. Wildlife is abundant. The drift dives with the outgoing current in the pass are absolutely exhilarating and exciting. Exhilarating because of the fish and the sharks. And exciting because in the back of your mind you know, that if the dinghy engine will not start, then your next stop with your dinghy probably is Australia.

The baby whale

Every year humpback whales come up from Antarctica to Beveridge Reef to give birth and stay in these warmer waters for winter. We were lucky to observe a 3-4 week old baby whale. After it had its breast feed breakfast it was full of joy and energy. You can see it playing with its fluke, learning how to splash. Until its mother had enough and picks it up from its play ground

Getting welcomed in Niue

The waters are amazingly clear in Niue. We “anchor”, i.e. are moored at 38 meters’ depth. It is easy to see the bottom from Barbarella. And, all fish in between. Including the local Niue dolphin welcome committee

July 2025: Sail to Niue

We saw a small weather window to sail east to Niue. A place, we wanted to go for some time. So off we went on Nora’s name day, sailing east. Tonga and Niue are in the “same” time zone. However, they each are on different sides of the date line. So we sailed from Tonga, where the day begins to Niue, where the day ends while Nora had a 48 hours name day. In Niue, our first stop was at the Niue Yacht Club, The “Biggest Little Yacht Club in the World – where no one owns a yacht or know how to sail“. Why no yachts? Well, Niue is just “a rock” in the Pacific. No harbor, no sheltered bay. Not even a dinghy can get on shore – unless you use a crane

Getting there

Always interesting to see Barbarella getting back into the water

June 2025: Boatyard Vava'u

I came back to Barbarella mid of May. Nora followed 5 weeks later with Barbarella still on the hard. What did I do for 5 weeks in the boatyard? The pictures show some of the maintenance, repair and overhaul work done. By the time we were really really ready to go back into the water, there was nasty rain and wind. It would have been safe to go, but we decided to wait. Because we are working hard on our new year resolution: to finally become fair weather sailors

November 2024: Vava'u

We finally made it to Vava’u, where Barbarella will stay for the cyclone season. To our surprise, we met many of our friends. We thought they all would be in the south of Tonga on standby in order to start sailing south to New Zealand, or on their way to New Zealand already, to hide for the cyclone season. However, strong winds in the south forced them to sail back north to Vava’u where, to our pleasant surprise, we could meet each other.

October 2024: Niuatoputapu, Tonga

Sailing south from Samoa, our first stop in Tonga was on the tiny island of Niuatoputapu. We were the only boat there during our 10-day stay. It gave us ample opportunities to get to know many of the 700 people who live on that beautiful island.

Samoa Wedding

The reason why we went to Samoa was to attend a Samoan/Maori-Hungarian wedding. We spent one week in the local “Return to Paradise” resort, together with about 70 wedding guests from Samoa and all over the south west Pacific. If you are not into music or weddings, I recommend that you, at least, jump to minute 12:47 to enjoy the most graceful dance I have ever seen.

Nora on stage

The cultural (and fun) highlight every year in Samoa is the week-long Teuila festival. It gives communities, villages, and church congregations the chance to compete through traditional dance and music. At the end of the week Miss Samoa is elected. During a fun event on day two the TV host was looking for a tourist volunteer. There were not too many tourists around and 20 seconds later Nora was on stage and live on national TV.

September 2024: Samoa

Samoa is not a good cruising ground for sailors. That is why we explored this amazing country mostly by foot and by car. Samoans are extremely friendly and have a great sense of humor. So, it was easy to meet interesting people and enjoy the month we stayed in Samoa.

Penryhn

We left the highlight, French Polynesia, just to arrive at this atoll called Penryhn, and to find out that French Polynesia is not THE highlight. It is ONE of the highlights. Around 170 extremely friendly and hospitable people live on this atoll. Customs told us that we had been the 6th boat vising Penryhn this year, but in good years they are visited by up to twenty boats. Each boat brings excitement to the island, because the supply boat comes only 3-5 times a year. Luckily, a big airstrip was built in the second world word war to fight the Japanese. So, if there is an emergency, a charter plane is sent to Penryhn from the capital Rarotonga.

August 2024: Goodbye French Polynesia

After almost two years in French Polynesia we had to leave this wonderful country, taking with us many great memories, “WOWs”, experiences and friendships. And the feeling that French Polynesia is THE highlight of our cruising so far.

Dyneema Rigging

Even though we had a rigging inspection only 12 months ago, we thought it should be checked again. And “of course” – like last year – the rigger found some serious issues with the “well proven gold standard 1×19 stainless steel cable” shrouds. Tired of the “gold standard” failing again and again, we now decided to go with the latest technology. Non-braided, “just” coiled, pre stretched SK99 Dyneema. 10 times stronger than steel (or 10 times lighter than steel). This has been engineered by crazy French racing sailors (Vendee-Globe, Route du Rhum, Transat 650, etc.) and ingenious sailing inventors in Tahiti. Now we are several thousand Euros and 40 thousand grams lighter – at 150% breaking load compared to “gold standard” steel, plus no more metal fatigue.

Moorea petting zoo

What to do in Moorea on a Sunday morning? Well, they have a petting zoo here. Not exactly a petting zoo with sheep, goats, rabbits or ponies and the likes, but sting rays. Wait, sting rays? Why are these rays called STING rays? I guess you better pet them well, otherwise you might find out the hard way. Luckily I am a master petter, so I was not afraid.

Fantastic 60

I do not mean fantastic 60 thousand nautical miles sailed. I mean 60 years lived on this beautiful planet. I had the privilege of celebrating my birthday in Papeete, together with Nora and our friends Paulina and Mathias and their lovely baby son Teo, who has exactly a 1/100th of my age. One of their presents was this poem:

In Tahiti’s glow, we toast to thee,

Our friend from Tuttlingen, wild and free.

4 years ago, in Cartagena our paths entwined,

With many challenges solved and hearts aligned.

He dives through blue, both free- and deep,

In Montafon’s snow, he makes a leap.

On wing foils swift, he rides the wave,

A spirit bold, forever brave.

With Nora by his side, so sweet,

Their joy and love make their life complete.

She hosts the best of festive nights,

With conversations that delight.